Introduction
Slopers are one of the six classic types of rock climbing holds found in both climbing gyms and outdoor routes. These holds are defined by their rounded, smooth surfaces that lack a positive edge, making them uniquely challenging to grip. Unlike crimps or jugs, slopers require climbers to rely on friction, surface contact, and precise body positioning rather than pure finger strength.
In this article, we’ll cover:
- What slopers are and why they’re challenging
- Techniques for climbing slopers effectively
- Training methods to improve your performance on slopers
- Common mistakes climbers make with slopers—and how to avoid them
Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to refine your skills, mastering slopers can elevate your climbing game and help you tackle more advanced problems.
Understanding Slopers
What Are Slopers?
Slopers are climbing holds that lack any defined edge or lip for gripping. Instead of pulling with your fingers, you must rely on an open-hand grip and the friction between your skin and the hold. These holds often resemble half-spheres or rounded protrusions from the wall.
How Do Slopers Differ From Other Holds?
- Crimps: Crimps have small edges that allow you to grip with your fingertips. Slopers lack these edges entirely.
- Jugs: Jugs are large holds with positive grips that are easy to grab onto. Slopers are the opposite—smooth and difficult to grasp.
Where Are Slopers Found?
Slopers are common in bouldering problems, where dynamic movement and body tension are critical. They can also appear in sport climbing routes, though they’re more frequently encountered in gym settings or on sandstone rock outdoors.
Techniques for Climbing Slopers
Mastering slopers requires a combination of proper hand positioning, body tension, footwork, and movement. Here’s a breakdown of key techniques:
1. Hand Positioning: Maximize Surface Contact
To grip a sloper effectively:
- Use an open-hand grip rather than crimping. This allows for maximum surface contact between your palm and the hold.
- Pull away from the direction the hold is facing rather than directly downward.
- Stay relaxed to avoid over-gripping, which can quickly tire out your forearms.
2. Body Positioning: Engage Your Core
Proper body positioning is critical when climbing slopers:
- Engage your shoulders and core to maintain tension throughout your body.
- Keep your arms extended rather than bent to conserve energy.
- Position your body in a triangle shape, pulling away from the hold’s direction while using your feet for counter-pressure.
Pro Tip: Maintaining tension through your core helps stabilize your movements and prevents you from slipping off the wall.
3. Footwork: Precision Is Key
Your footwork plays a significant role in staying on slopers:
- Place your feet precisely on footholds or use smearing techniques when footholds are minimal.
- Create counter-pressure by pushing against the wall with your feet while pulling with your hands.
4. Momentum and Movement: Static vs. Dynamic Approaches
When transitioning between holds:
- Use a static approach (slow and controlled) when possible to maintain balance.
- For further reaches, employ a dynamic approach, using momentum generated by your body position to move smoothly between holds.
Pro Tip: Practice both static and dynamic movements on easier routes before tackling harder problems with slopers.
Training to Improve on Slopers
Improving on slopers requires targeted training for grip strength, body tension, and technique. Here’s how you can train effectively:
Grip Strength Exercises
- Incorporate hangboard workouts focusing on open-hand grips.
- Train pinch strength using pinch blocks or weights.
- Perform wrist-strengthening exercises like wrist curls or reverse curls.
Core and Shoulder Engagement
- Build core strength with exercises like planks, leg raises, or hollow-body holds.
- Improve shoulder engagement with pull-ups, scapular pull-ups, or resistance band exercises.
Practicing on Slopers
- Seek out routes or problems featuring slopers at your local gym.
- Practice drills such as traversing across a wall using only sloper holds to build confidence and refine technique.
Pro Tip: Consistent practice is key—don’t shy away from routes that challenge you!
Common Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
Climbing slopers can be frustrating if you fall into these common pitfalls:
1. Over-Gripping
Gripping too hard wastes energy and leads to forearm fatigue (getting “pumped”). Stay relaxed and focus on body positioning instead of relying solely on hand strength.
2. Poor Foot Placement
Sloppy footwork can cause you to slip off the wall. Always place your feet deliberately and use smearing techniques when necessary.
3. Ignoring Body Positioning
Failing to engage your core or shoulders puts unnecessary strain on your hands. Remember: good body positioning is just as important as grip strength when it comes to slopers.
Conclusion
Slopers may be one of the most challenging types of climbing holds, but they’re also incredibly rewarding once mastered. By focusing on proper technique—hand positioning, body tension, footwork—and incorporating targeted training into your routine, you’ll build confidence and skill over time.
Key takeaways:
- Use an open-hand grip for maximum surface contact.
- Engage your core and shoulders to maintain tension.
- Practice precise foot placement and dynamic movement techniques.
Stay patient as you practice—progress takes time! For additional resources, check out these helpful videos:
Happy climbing!